
This is a great piece from a friend who lived in Taiwan:
Chicken Musings
By Matthew Fulco
If you aren’t a vegetarian, chicken is a safe choice for many occasions. It doesn’t have a strong taste. It can be easily prepared many ways. And it is not expensive.
In most of its fast food incarnations, chicken is also a more palatable option than beef. A Big Mac just sinks under the weight of two gristly patties, sopping cheese slices, and rivers of sauce. By comparison, a McChicken sandwich – fried chicken plus lettuce and mayo – seems like a light snack.
Of course, in the U.S. eating chicken means a chicken breast, thighs, legs and wings. Or some mélange of those parts (we hope) processed into a chicken patty. Chinese restaurants catering to American taste buds may even explicitly state on the menu that certain chicken dishes are “all white meat.”
The assumption is Americans are more concerned with perceived health benefits than taste. After all, dark meat contains more fat and is thus more flavorful. The extra fat also makes it better suited to the high temperatures of searing Chinese woks. In these conditions, white meat can easily dry out.
I learned all this during my three years in Taiwan, where the people enjoy making the most out of their chickens. By this, I mean not discarding useful organs, limbs and such.
If you think about it, there is nothing stopping us from creating less waste, except cultural norms. The idea of eating chicken feet does not appeal to most Americans. First, there comes to mind the issue of cleanliness. Then there is the idea of munching on little bones and skin, listening to joints crack between our teeth.
Chicken feet are actually fairly innocuous. Imagine chewing on softened chicken bones and skin, steamed in a black bean sauce, with little succulent meat to be had for your efforts.
For a while in Taiwan, I used to order chicken feet any time I went out with my Taiwanese colleagues. I wanted to show them I was open-minded and brave. After all, they expected most foreigners to squirm at the sight of a fish served whole, head and all. No organic salmon filets to be found. Never mind volunteering to eat chicken feet.
Then one evening at a local night market I noticed chicken feet for sale. They looked far less appetizing than what I had eaten in restaurants. Black as tar, long nails still intact, and stacked in a steaming vat. Flanked by dark purple pig’s blood cakes to the left and miscellaneous internal organs to the right.
I could make out what looked like a skewer of five plump chicken hearts dripping with oil. I imagined they could have been beating as one if they hadn’t been impaled.
Sitting in a pit of grease alongside a collection of blood and guts was one thing. But the main problem was the nails. The restaurants had had the courtesy to remove them. But here they were. I tried to imagine them pricking my gums as I munched on a foot. It just wasn’t appealing.
So ended my brief flirtation with chicken feet. Henceforth, I managed to mostly avoid them.
Yet the nature of Chinese cooking can make it hard to identify the origins of certain foods. Heavy, dark sauces can obscure the color and flavor of meat. Food also plays a central role in Chinese culture. Openly refusing a dish can embarrass your host, and perhaps even hurt the person’s feelings.
With that in mind, I stumbled upon a newly edible part of the chicken entirely.
I owe this culinary discovery to a fairly unassuming software engineer named David, who was my student for six months in mid-2005.
Taiwanese students often come straight to class after work. With little time to eat a proper dinner, they occasionally grab snacks from a nearby night market.
David had come to class that evening with a paper bag of oily night market treats. In fact, grease had drenched the bag and was seeping slowly onto the desk where it lay. As the oil began to trickle onto the floor, David offered me an enormous fried squid tentacle. He probably knew I loved calamari. I devoured the lukewarm tentacle without a second thought and thanked him.
But the tentacle was fairly straight ahead compared to the next offering. With an insipid expression on his face, he fished into the bag and pulled out a misshapen brownish blob on a stick. Violet veins coursed through the flesh. He offered it to me gingerly, adding, “It’s really delicious.”
Considering the look on his face, I had my doubts. But the entire class was staring at me expectantly. I figured the blob was likely an organ of some kind, but I couldn’t be sure which one. A kidney wouldn’t be so bad. Not only high in iron, but I had eaten a few accidentally over the Chinese New Year.
Rather than proceed cautiously, I pushed the whole chunk of flesh into my mouth. It tasted like oily, soy-based sauce. The meat was fatty but lacking in distinctive flavor. I swallowed and grabbed a cup of lukewarm tea from the desk.
The haste in my movements provoked an eruption of laughter.
I looked from David to the rest of the students and back.
“Ok, so what was it?” I asked evenly.
15 seconds of silence.
David then smiled and matter-of-factly stated, “chicken butt.”
“What do you mean, ‘butt?’ I pressed. Certainly not a chicken rump roast.
But the word was beyond the scope of his English vocabulary. To be fair, I would venture to say within Taiwan, only those in the medical profession are familiar with the term.
What I had eaten was a chicken sphincter, a popular night market snack.
Having dined upon the chicken’s lower limbs and excretory system, I had come a long way from organic boneless, skinless breast meat.
The latter may be healthier in terms of fat content, but you have to give the Taiwanese credit for their frugality.
As far as cleanliness goes, night market food never once disagreed with me.
In fact, it was after my sole visit to KFC in Taiwan that I got the worst stomach virus of my adult years.
A fajita wrap of breast meat with Cajun sauce was the culprit.
Go figure.